zoom_in Click to enlarge

Butterballs

▲ ▼

description Butterballs Overview

Butterballs is a traditional crack climb at Cookie Cliff in Yosemite Valley, California, generally graded 5.10c. Established during Yosemite's formative era of free climbing, it is known for sustained finger-crack and thin-hand technique on granite rather than bolted face climbing. The route is intended for experienced traditional climbers who can place removable protection while managing strenuous, technically precise crack sequences.

help Butterballs FAQ

Is Butterballs really graded 5.10c?

Most modern Yosemite sources rate Butterballs around 5.11c, not 5.10c. Older grades and recollections vary, but climbers should prepare for sustained, difficult finger-crack climbing.

Where is Butterballs in Yosemite?

Butterballs is at Cookie Cliff, a major crack-climbing area west of Yosemite Valley's central developed zone. It is associated with the same cliff as classics such as Outer Limits and Meat Grinder.

Who made the first ascent of Butterballs?

Jim Bridwell and Jim Orey established Butterballs in 1971. The route belongs to the generation when Yosemite climbers were pushing free-climbing standards on thin cracks.

What rack and technique does Butterballs demand?

The climb is known for strenuous finger locks, precise feet, and sustained crack technique. A modern rack emphasizes finger-size protection, but current Yosemite beta should be checked for exact quantities and approach details.

swap_horiz

Looking for Butterballs alternatives? Compare top competitors ranked & scored

arrow_forward