description Magic Mushroom Overview
Magic Mushroom is a steep, difficult free climbing route on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, first free climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden in 2006.
help Magic Mushroom FAQ
How difficult is Magic Mushroom on El Capitan?
The free-climbing version is graded around 5.14a and contains sustained hard climbing high on El Capitan. Accounts describe nine pitches around 5.12 and roughly a dozen in the 5.13 to 5.14 range.
Who made the first free ascent of Magic Mushroom?
Tommy Caldwell and Justen Sjong completed the first free ascent in 2008. Beth Rodden later supported Caldwell during his approximately 20-hour single-push ascent that June.
What kind of climbing makes Magic Mushroom so difficult?
The route is known for flared corners, overhanging chimneys, strenuous cracks, and thin protection. A particularly difficult upper section called Seven Seas involves an overhanging finger crack near the summit.
How does Magic Mushroom compare with the Dawn Wall?
Magic Mushroom is generally listed at 5.14a, while the Dawn Wall reaches 5.14d. Both are elite El Capitan free climbs, but Magic Mushroom follows the southwest face near the Shield headwall and is especially known for awkward crack and chimney climbing.
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